PNS Brushes Information

How to best prepare and maintain your acrylic brush

What is gum arabic

First, let's consider gum arabic. ‘In brushes, gum arabic is used for transport. The brush fits better in the plastic sleeve because the hairs are held together by the gum.’ The gum arabic must be removed before use. ‘It must be completely removed. This is easier with a thin brush, but with an acrylic brush with kolinsky hairs, it can really take some time. Take your time and don't do this at the table with the client present, because then you probably won't take enough time.’ You might miss gum particles this way, which can eventually cause a split tip.

Removing gum arabic:

So how do you remove gum arabic correctly? ‘The very first step is to remove and discard the plastic sleeve. Squeeze the hairs and then firmly rub the brush hairs back and forth over a nail wipe. ‘You can also rub it against a harder object. Do this while looking at it against the light, until you no longer see any dust coming out of the brush.’

Preparing, maintaining & storing acrylic brushes:

Next, dip the acrylic brush in clean liquid and clean the brush on a nail wipe. Repeat this a few times, then discard the liquid. You can then keep the acrylic brush in good condition by cleaning it with a little new liquid after use. ‘Sometimes acrylic beads can get stuck between your bristles. If it hardens, you'll get clumps between the hairs. So always dip your brush in clean liquid and create the tip on a nail wipe.’ Leave a little liquid in the brush to prevent it from hardening.

Storing acrylic brushes: hang them up or lay them diagonally in a brush case. ‘If the liquid runs into the metal ferrule, you'll get yellowing, corrosion. Then, the next time you use it, you risk yellow stains in your work, and you won't be able to get them out of the brush.’ If you use a brush case, you can prop up the back slightly. ‘That way, the hairs point downwards, and the liquid doesn't run into the ferrule.’

The acrylic brush is much more delicate than the brushes we use for gel. Not only can liquid run into the ferrule, but clumps of acrylic can also remain. ‘If you have a hard clump in your brush, hang the brush a bit in the liquid. The hairs should not touch the bottom. For example, use a clothespin so the brush floats in the dappen dish.’ After five to ten minutes, you can carefully remove the clumps. ‘Do this gently. If you do it too hard, your brush will lose its proper shape.’

• Gel and nail art brushes are now available in all shapes, colors, and sizes. However, these brushes also require proper preparation and maintenance.

Preparing, maintaining & storing gel brushes:

With gel brushes, this works exactly the same as described above for removing gum arabic. Gel brushes are often thinner, making it easier to remove the gum.’ Additionally, you obviously don't need to dip the gel brush in liquid.

It is very important to clean gel brushes thoroughly before use. In terms of maintenance, gel and nail art brushes are much easier than acrylic brushes. ‘But with these brushes, it's also important to store them properly. When you want to put away a gel brush, always use a transparent gel/basecoat as a finisher to keep the hairs neatly together. If you want to clean a gel brush with a liquid, use cleanser on a wipe.

But what's the best way to store gel brushes? Always store gel brushes without their plastic caps and out of direct sunlight. ‘Sunlight is also UV light, and this can harden your brushes.’ Even when the sun isn't shining. Therefore, store the brushes in a dark place or in a storage case.

Removing color from gel brush

Do you find it difficult to remove colors properly from your brushes? You can often remove the excess color, but pigments remain in the brush. Use some transparent gel on a mixing palette and then push the transparent gel through the hairs from one side. This way, you can push the color out. Gently wipe off the color pigments on a wipe and repeat this about two to three times.’ It is difficult to completely remove the pigments. Therefore, use multiple brushes: one brush for lighter and one brush for darker colors.

It's also handy to keep a separate brush for glitter. ‘Throughout your career, you collect brushes. When you want to do something with glitter, use an old brush.’

You can also use brush cleaner to clean brushes. ‘BUT this dries out the hairs. All liquids dry out the brush. Don't let anyone convince you that you need special liquids to clean your brushes. This only dries out natural hairs.’ On average, you can use your brushes for about 6 months to a year if you work with them every day. ‘But you have to handle them carefully if you want them to last a long time.’

Nail art brushes

With nail art brushes, cleaning after use is very important. You can do this with water or alcohol. Never remove product residue with your nails or a sharp object from the brush. This will cause a curl in your brush.’ Are there hairs on your gel or nail art brush that are no longer pointing in the right direction? Then you can trim them. ‘Always do this at the metal part of the brush, the ferrule.’

When you want to store nail art brushes, you can put a little basecoat in the hairs, and it's good to put the cap back on. ‘That way, the hairs won't go astray, and they'll have protection from the cap.’